How to Groom a Cat and Best Brushes to Use
- Rachel
- May 7
- 11 min read
Updated: 9 hours ago
*As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases at no cost to you.

We’ve all heard of dog groomers or "doggie salons" where owners take their loyal companions for a good old pamper session, but what about cats? A quick internet search shows that feline groomers are few and far between, and for most kitty parents, it's not hard to see why.
Some people wouldn't approach their cat with a comb wearing anything less than a full suit of armour, and even experienced groomers have to take special measures - although perhaps not as extreme as this! An experienced hand, an understanding of feline behaviour and how to minimise stress are good starting points, but a lot of it rests on the personality and temperament of any individual cat.
For most parents, including myself, taking cats to a vet clinic is stressful enough. Travelling, strangers, loud noises and unfamiliar smells are capable of turning a pamper session into a horror show; therefore, getting your cat used to being groomed at home can be greatly beneficial.
In this article:

Do I Need to Groom My Cat?
Perhaps another reason why cat salons are less popular is because they're considered to be self-groomers. In fact, cats spend between 2-5 hours grooming themselves every single day.
Cats have tiny, hook-like structures on the surface of their tongue called papillae, which is what gives it that rough texture. The papillae act like a comb to catch loose hairs and debris, such as dead skin and dust that contributes to matting and tangling. Grooming also stimulates the production of sebum by the sebaceous glands, and licking spreads it over their coat to lubricate and protect.
Aside from hygiene maintenance, other benefits of grooming include:
Bonding time with your cat.
Spotting skin problems like dandruff, allergies, infections and parasites.
Monitor overall health, since poor coat can be a result of other illnesses and disease.
Minimise hairballs and vomiting.
Stimulate natural oils to reduce dandruff.
Less stray hairs floating around the house.

Cats will get rid of most loose fur themselves, but giving them a helping hand reduces the amount of hair swallowed. Some cats suffer with hairballs more than others, and you can get specially formulated food with added fibre to move it through the digestive tract. Therefore, regular grooming could save you a lot of money in the long-run.
Hairballs are more common amongst indoor cats that are less active than their outdoor counterparts and spend more time on self-grooming. Their flexibility allows them to reach most areas of their body, but there are some instances where they need extra help.
Cats that are sick or infirm may be unable to clean themselves.
Seniors with less flexibility and stiff, aching joints.
Long-haired cats with matting (knots) that get very tight and pull on the skin if left unchecked, causing pain and discomfort.
Shedding/moulting season.
What Type of Brush Should I Use?
Much like humans, grooming isn't quite as simple as "one brush suits all". There are a variety of options for different hair types and functions, and selecting the right one can make the task as quick and painless as possible - for both you and your cat!

Slicker Brushes
Slicker brushes come in different styles but generally have a wide head with lots of short, fine metal bristles that are densely packed together. These are a popular choice for kitties with medium to long hair to remove loose fur and work out tangles and matting.
Slickers can be used on any cat, but the bristles come a little sharp if they don't have protective balls or caps on the end. This may be uncomfortable for short-haired or sensitive cats.

Pin Brushes
Pin brushes are similar to slickers but with longer, pin-like bristles that are more spaced apart and usually have small balls on the end. These are better for sensitive skin and finishing touches by stimulating the secretion of natural oils.
Some recommend pin brushes for short or medium coats, while others use them for penetrating deeper under the fur of long-haired cats where slickers might not reach, helping to avoid those tangles. They're commonly used on poodles with thick curly coats, so you should consider texture as well as length.

Bristle Brushes
A bristle brush is similar to a human brush and works well on any coat, as long as you choose the right style for your cat. Short, soft and tightly-packed bristles should be enough for the short-haired kitty. For longer hair, you'll need longer bristles that are spaced further apart so they can glide through the coat. They're not great for de-matting, but you can still use them to achieve a silky smooth finish.
As bristle brushes are softer than metal or plastic, they tend to be more tolerated and have a nice massaging effect.

Double-Sided Brushes
Dual brushes offer the best of both worlds with bristles on one side and pins on the other, saving a few pennies in the meantime. They're especially useful for long-haired cats, as you can use the pin brush to detangle and the bristle brush to smooth.

Silicone Brushes
Silicone or rubber brushes, often referred to as massagers, come in different forms for the grooming-averse kitty. From wall-mounted attachments that cats can rub against at their own leisure, to wearable gloves that you can pop on and pet your cat as normal.
The large rubber bristles are soft and flexible and will collect loose hair that you can shake off into the bin. This is a great choice for beginners, especially if cats have sensitive skin or are prone to shedding. However, it won't get through tangles and matting.
Once you begin grooming, you might find that you need a different brush for different areas. My long-haired moggie, Drax, has a big bushy beard that does well with a slicker brush; but it barely gets through the longer fur on his stomach that's prone to knotting. All it does is pull and he responds by running away - this is where combs come in handy.

Grooming Comb
A standard metal comb with same-length pins that helps with untangling knots. Large, spaced out teeth are best for long-haired cats; while combs with teeth that are close together work nicely on short-haired cats.
My domestic shorthair, Simba, actually prefers a comb to a brush, even though it takes a little longer due to the thickness of his coat. Drax won't tolerate most cat combs, so instead I use a plastic hair comb which is less harsh on his skin. It's not the best tool in the world but better than nothing!
De-Shedder
These might look scary, but they're designed to cut through thick fur and undercoats by getting rid of loose hair and matting without damaging the topcoat. Furminator de-shedders have a blade that doesn't touch the skin, which are commonly used on breeds like Maine Coons and Ragdolls.

Since de-shedders thin out the fur, you can risk damaging it if used incorrectly. Professional groomers advise de-shedding no more than once a week, and only on coats that require it or during shedding season.
Personally, I find these useful for thinning the hair on the back of Drax's legs and around the rear end. Anyone with a long-haired kitty will understand when I say these areas can get rather messy, which isn't pleasant for anyone!
Grooming Rakes
As the name suggests, these are shaped like mini rakes and feature metal teeth that remove deeper layers of loose hair and undercoat, similar to a de-shedder. Standard rakes may have a combination of long/wide and short/narrow teeth to preserve the topcoat. You can also get rakes for short-haired cats with heavy shedding.

Undercoat rakes are a little more aggressive with sharp, curved, hook-shaped teeth that are gentle on the skin while scooping up loose or matted hair. Some have a wide side for de-matting and a dense side for de-shedding afterwards.
Groomers recommend using a rake to loosen hair before running over with a slicker or bristle brush. Again, they should be used with caution and not all cats will tolerate them. If it pulls the fur, you can try using a standard comb instead.
You should have a good understanding of your cat's coat type or consult a professional groomer for advice.
Flea Comb
Flea combs have short, narrow teeth that are close together to catch parasites, eggs and faeces. Even if your cat hasn't been scratching like a maniac, it's always good to run a comb through their fur just in case. Areas where fleas like to congregate include the head and neck, followed by the lower back and stomach. You can speak to your vet if parasites are present or purchase a spot-on treatment like Frontline.

How to Brush Your Cat
The process for brushing cats depends on whether they're short-haired or long-haired, but there are some general tips for getting cats used to being groomed. As always, a gradual introduction is best.
Choose a time when your cat is relaxed or has already started to interact with you, just as you would during petting. If a cat is in play mode then its brush will look more like a toy!
Allow them to sniff the brush and rub their faces on it to deposit their scent, marking it as a familiar object.
Start with areas that your cat is comfortable being touched like the head and cheeks, and gently stroke them with the brush. If you hold it out then kitty might start rubbing themselves against it, allowing them to feel in control of the process.
Once your cat is happy, stroke the brush between their shoulder blades and down the back. Tummies, legs and tails are sensitive areas, but it's not usually necessary for shorthairs.
Finish the session with a reward, although you can offer treats periodically throughout to build positive associations with the grooming experience.
Remember, treats are most effective when given in response to things cats don't like. If there's a particular area of the body they don't enjoy being brushed, you should reward them for tolerating it - not for running away or tempting them back.

Blue Cross recommends the following techniques.
Short-Haired Cats
Gently massage your cat's fur at the base to loosen deeper layers of hair.
Run a bristle brush (or slicker) through their coat in the direction of the hair growth, moving down the body from head to tail with long strokes.
Finish with a silicone brush or glove to collect the remaining hair, using the same long strokes.
Long-Haired Cats
If it's easier and your cat is tolerant, you can separate the hair into sections to make it easier to work with.
Run through their coat using a wide-toothed comb in the direction of hair growth, moving down the body from head to tail with long strokes. Slicker or pin brushes can be used, but a comb will penetrate deeper under the stomach and armpits where hair tends to be longer.
If you come across any knots, make sure to tease them apart gently so as not to pull the skin - you can use your fingers to help work them out from root to tip.
Finish with a silicone brush or glove to collect the remaining hair using the same long strokes.

As mentioned, most cats don't enjoy their tummies being brushed. For our fluffier felines, this can result in getting the electric clippers out. Shaving off tangles is likely to be more stressful than grooming, so you want to avoid it wherever possible.
Clamping cats down will create negative associations and they'll flee whenever they see a brush in your hand. If possible, wait until your cat is lying down with its belly exposed and brush in short bouts until it's decided that it's had enough.
If brushing a cat while it's standing, you can place a hand in front of their chest to stop them from wandering off. If they start to struggle or show signs of irritation, it's best to leave them be and try again later.

How Long Should I Spend Grooming My Cat?
This depends on how willing or compliant your cat is, but short, regular sessions have less chance of overstimulation or annoyance. Also remember that cats groom themselves thoroughly on a daily basis. If you feel that they need a little extra help, you can build up to longer sessions.
One groom per week for shorthairs is sufficient to keep their coats in good condition, although Simba will take any opportunity! Long-haired cats may need grooming on a daily basis, which is unfortunate given that Drax is less partial to a comb than his brother; although this may be due to more vigorous grooming sessions.
The better you can care for your cat's coat, the less time you'll have to spend on it per day - which is perfect for awkward kitties.

How to Groom a Kitten
The earlier you train your cat to be groomed as part of its normal routine, the more tolerant it'll be in the long-run. If you have a cat that's just given birth, it's best to wait until kittens are at least two weeks old before handling them. This is around the time they start grooming themselves, and a nursing mother may not appreciate her babies being touched.
According to experts, the socialisation stage of a cat's development is between 2-7 weeks old. This window of time is crucial for getting kittens used to human contact, which grooming can facilitate.
Battersea Dogs & Cats Home advise using a soft toothbrush to begin with, progressing to larger brushes as they get older and more comfortable. Since kittens have shorter, softer and fluffier coats, they don't require a lot of maintenance.
As always, exposure to handling and grooming should start gradually to help build a positive experience, where kitty knows it's free to move away once it's had enough without being grabbed or restrained.

How Do I Know If My Cat Is Uncomfortable?
Cats show subtle but common behaviours when they're unhappy, and it's a good idea to familiarise yourself with them so you can stop before kitty decides to strike - and thus end on a positive note.
Similar to petting aggression, some of the warning signs include:
A swishing tail or flicking end.
Ears pointing backwards or flattened to the head.
Twitching skin, particularly on the back.
Stiff or rigid posture.
Dilated pupils.
Side-eying the hand holding the brush.
Low growling.
If your cat shrieks then it's more likely that you've tugged on a knot, which can get bigger the longer you leave them. Often, the best course of action is to quickly snip them off with scissors or use an electric shaver. Sometimes sedation by a vet is necessary.
If your cat shows any of these signs, take note of what you're doing and which area of the body you're focusing on. That way, you can avoid it or be more careful in the future.

It's important to note that cats have special receptors in their skin that make them ultra-sensitive to touch. Just like their other senses, these receptors send information to the brain about their environment, temperature, pain and other factors that are essential to their survival.
Along with their paper-thin skin, hair follicle receptors are highly sensitive, which is why cats are easily overstimulated. Basically, the receptors tell cats when something feels good but can fail to shut down properly, so it goes from feeling good to uncomfortable and eventually painful.
Finally, there's no harm in a few spritzes of calming spray prior to the session for extra zen.

Clipping and Bathing
Clipping hair isn't usually necessary unless fur is tangled, and it should be done with scissors or clippers designed for cats. Bathing should also be avoided and can worsen matting but, having a long-haired kitty of my own, sometimes it's necessary for hygiene reasons!
Sphynx cats are the exception, and their sensitive skin needs washing once a week or every few weeks to keep it healthy and bacteria free. Since they lack a fluffy coat, they have oily skin that's prone to acne and blackheads.
Vets may recommend bathing with a special shampoo if a cat has fleas or other skin conditions.
Summary
Make sure cats are in a relaxed state before grooming and, if necessary, use a calming aid like sprays, diffusers or herbal treats.
Choose the correct type of brush for your cat.
Stick to short, regular grooming sessions: once a week for short-haired cats and daily for long-haired.
Start grooming kittens once they reach two weeks old, but no more than once a week.
Be aware of warning signs that your cat is annoyed or unhappy.
Reward cats after the session or when working on uncomfortable areas.
If cats struggle or run away, stop grooming and resume later.
If clipping or bathing is unavoidable, only use products designed for cats.
Recommended Products
Do you have any grooming tips or furrtastic brushes of your own to share? Let us know in the comments if this article helped.
Commentaires